The Build
Before starting, a project like this needed some thought about vision, objectives, location, size, cost, time, and what level of detail and quality I’d be happy with. It also needed careful thought about how it might impact family and household. Fortunately for me, my wife Jo has encouraged me in all aspects of this hobby, despite thinking its mad!
My ambition was to build a layout of Steyning that would look respectable in my local model railway show (although I don’t intend to show it). I’m normally someone who prefers to accept a “good enough” job and move on quickly to new things. So I knew this would be a challenge for me, requiring patience and my best work. However, I know my limits and building a "magazine quality" layout was never an option for me as I don't have that level of skill.
My initial estimate for the build was £650 excluding new rolling stock and controllers. To non-hobbyists that might sound a lot for a "train set". I think of it as buying hundreds of hours of entertainment and enjoyment over several years, which makes it good value.
Track planning
My layout is kept in the small bedroom which limits size. I also wanted to be able to take it down to store, and get it in the car.
Although N gauge is expensive and fiddly compared with OO/HO, it is great if you are trying to fit a lot into a tight space. I opted for the main display board being 160cmx50cm, the fiddle yard being 160cmx30cm, and the two loop end boards being 80cmx40cm. I can operate the main board in isolation, or as a 240cmx80cm loop.
To model the area I’ve covered accurately would require a layout at least 3 times longer. Consequently, I’ve had to make many compromise decisions. Among these, the platforms take 3 coaches instead of 6, the engine shed is halved in size, the Railway Hotel is smaller and lost all its gardens and the start of the market has moved closer to the line. Despite this, I’m pleased that people from Steyning have instantly recognised the place.
I initially planned the track layout using SCARM software. But with all the dimension compromises I was making, I wasn’t confident it would look right in real life. Consequently, I decided to map out the layout using paper track templates. I’m glad I did as it resulted in a lot of fine tuning.
Baseboard Construction
My baseboards are made from 9mm MDF, and I’ve built the frames from 70mm x 18mm smooth planned timber. I’ve the covered the MDF all over with cork to reduce noise and vibrations.
I’ve used brass furniture alignment dowels to ensure the board sections line-up each time, and wing nuts and bolts to hold the sections together.
B and Q can supply the MDF in 2.44m x 1.22m sheets. Fortunately, they also provided a free cutting service which meant I didn’t need any more power tools. It made transport by car very easy and also proved to be very accurate.
Here, the four boards go together for the first time and the track is tested.
I decided to use Peco Code 80 N gauge track. It was the right decision at the time as I was familiar with it from my first layout, and it is easily available on the 2nd hand market and at my local store. But if I ever build a 3rd layout I’d go for Code 55 for its extra realism.
The large hole is for the recessed stream area.
Building Construction
The larger buildings are scratch built as no suitable kits are available. I’ve estimated the dimensions of the buildings based on the height of people in old photos, then adjusted for what I can fit on the layout and looks realistic.
To make the buildings robust and long lasting, I’ve built frames from balsa sheets. I’ve then “rendered” the frame using printed or plain card opting for scored folds at corners where possible to minimise join lines. The windows frames are brass kits, the glass is cut from plastic wrapping with the background from dark coloured pages of a glossy magazine.
In this scale, if you are 1mm out on any dimension it looks wrong as that’s 6 inches in real life. You have to be patient and accept that you will make some mistakes that require rework or restart. The station roof took me 7 attempts to build something I was happy with. In the end I opted for a simpler design that is not quite the same as the original building.
Landscaping and Backdrop
The contour foundations are made from polystyrene packaging roughly cut to shape with a bread knife. I’ve then covered this with plaster cloth, and smoothed out any wrinkles with household plaster filler. Once dry I’ve given it a coat of grey or green paint depending on the area so that no white shows through. The grass areas are “scatter” available from most model shops which I’ve stuck down with diluted PVA glue. I’ve used very a fine wet’n’dry sandpaper to give texture to the roads and market area.
My first layout used a pre-printed back-drop, but for this layout I decided to try and paint it myself. I’ve kept my technique very simple. I already had a large quantity of white and baby blue emulsion paint knocking around so I tried using a roller and kitchen sponge. Then I bought some match pots in various colours for the countryside. Most of the countryside painting is simple blobs of colour using a sponge and masking tape to gradually build up layers of topography. The tree trunks are painted with a brush, but the tree leaves are a simply more blobs with a smaller bit of sponge. It needed several practice goes on scrap wood before I attempted the final board.
The biggest challenge with painting the back board is one of perspective, particularly the two end panels. If you add 2D features that continue from the 3D model e.g. track continuation roads, then it only looks right when viewed from one exact location and height. I’ve currently painted the left side panel as if you are looking down the track from about 1 foot above, it’s something I might revisit so it looks better when viewed from standing at the front in the middle.
The Market
I’ve had to slightly relocate the market closer to the railway line, and significantly reduce the number of sheep pens so that this section can be included in my layout.
I’ve tried to recreate an auction scene.
The pens are scratch built from chicken wire, and the straw has been trimmed from an old teddy bear!
I’ve painted the cattle area on paper first before sticking it to the back board.
Water
To create my stream, I’ve built the stream bed in plaster then painted it. To give the water effect I’ve used a product by Woodland Scenics called “Realistic Water”.
The product is poured into the stream in thin layers, I waited 24 hours between pours. I’m very pleased with the result. But be warned, if there is any way this liquid product can escape from your stream or pool area whilst drying, it will. And it’s nasty sticky stuff if it does.
Print